Homey Community Forum

Fibaro by Athom

app
official

#143

The new firmware rc2 fixed my problem with the double switch now! firmware.athom.com


#144

I still can’t use the tile in the Homey app. Flows are working but no manual switching.


#145

Try restarting and disable/enable Fibaro app. Then ptp if it won‘t work.


#146

The new release fibaro app doesn’t fix the double switch S2 tile.


#147

2.0.1rc fixed the Fibaro Dial switch error for me.


#148

I just upgraded to 2.1.19, but trying to change advanced settings for my Dimmer 2 still causes an error or just simply crashes the Homey-app…


#149

It doesn’t fix tamper or motion alarm either…


#150

Ok, I’ll wait for the stable release. Thx.


#151

I have many double switch and s1 or s2 doesnt fix consumtion of power i have installed again
And now my keyfob dont work now yesterday its work
now ihave the latest firmware 2,1,19


#152

The latest update 2.0.1rc fixed the fibaro s1 switching from the app.
Great!


#153

Hey guys. Im considering moving from Vera to Homey. One of my concerns are the listed partial support for Fibaro Roller Shutter 2. In vera I use the up/down/commands. But I also use the feature that it reports back the status of the shutters positions, plus that I can freely set its position and it will go there. Is this supported with the Homey? This is a screenshot from the control on Vera

Other than that I use Fibaro Dimmer 2 and Double/Singel Switches 2. I also trigger scenes using Wattage report from switches.

Is all of above supported? Thanks guys.


#154

I cant comment on the Roller, but the Singe Switches (2) and Dimmer (2) both work well at reporting power usage.

The Dual Switch 2, will correctly report the power usege on the (S/Q-1) but the second switch doesn’t get reported.

This bug was first reported a year ago, so I wouldnt hold your breath waiting for it to get fixed.


#155

The position reports are wonky within the device interface as they don’t update the position within it. The workaround is to use Tags and to push the final position to me every time I move the blinds.

Also the UP DOWN STOP buttons also are not as responsive as I’ve liked to be honest. So I’ve set up virtual devices to preset my blinds position instead of fiddling around the settings.

As of the latest update, roller shutter 3 isn’t supported and FGR-222, Roller Shutter 2 only v2.5 appears to be working correctly. My older roller shutters are working but the UP DOWN setting is reversed.


#156

Is anyone else having the issue where after repairing devices that are paired not in secure mode?


#157

My double switch 2 looks like it’s not in secure mode also. I had to re-pair it and now secured mode is turned off.


#158

You also better create a new ticket for this @David_K so they are aware thatt it is affecting multiple people.

https://support.athom.com/hc/en-us/requests/new


#159

@Jamie just did. Anyone has some good reading about secured vs non secured. I would like to technically understand differences. I’m aware its AES and that non encrypted is faster while encrypted is more secured. I’m more interested in what means non secure and what exactly is encrypted in secure.


#160

Thanks so getting anywhere near this result is wishful thinking ?


#161

This sounds more like a topic for @Caseda but I think non secure is :

  • Not as secure
  • Faster
  • Larger Range
  • Less battery (if battery device)

Also pretty sure that a secure device forward messages of no secured devices (mesh). However I don’t know if a unsecured device will mesh properly (forward messages) to secured devices?


#162

Edit: whooo that has gotten a bit longer then expected

There isn’t a lot of difference between non secure vs secure.

The main differences is that with non secure other people are able to sniff the data, and actually know what is being send, secured devices you can still sniff data, but the data will be encrypted.
There are different levels of encryption, making it harder to decrypt for the people that try to sniff, it is of course not impossible, even in the latest “S2” encryption, just making it very unlikely that people will do it.

The way secure works is: the device (or homey) sends a request for an encryption key, the receiving device will respond with such a key (the key changes for every command), which the device then can encrypt the data (IE motion turned on/off) with and send the real (encrypted) data to the receiving device.
99% is encrypted, the only thing that is not, is the receiving node id, and any node id’s the signal has been routed through.

So these are 3 wireless signals (that could fail, it is still wireless) for 1 set of data.
Where non secure it is just 1 signal for the data.
The range will stay the same, there is just 3x more possibilities that it could go wrong somewhere down the line.

As the signal is still z-wave, it can get meshed by non secure devices, as it only needs to send the (encrypted) data on to the receiving device.

For direct association this is a bit of a different story, as the receiving device does need to know how to handle with secure signals, making it “impossible” to directly associate secure devices towards non secure devices.
I’ve put the impossible in quotes, as there are a few devices that can still send a signal unsecure, even if it is secure (useally just on/off on a very basic level), but not many manufacturers implement this, as it makes the device less secure, or have it as a parameter (like some aeotec devices).

Inclusion wise (currently implemented in homey) is that if a device can be secure, it (should) will always include secure, unless the device has an option for unsecure inclusion (like aeotec).
It is possible to include secure devices as unsecure into a controller (in our case homey), this however has never been implemented into homey. (yet)