On our friend in china(alieexpress) I see some rgbw led strips as the picture.
I know there are fibaro rgbw dimmers and other brands but the output is one color and you can mix colors for an other color.
But is it possible to set a walking light with different colors or something as the picture?
So I don’t know if it exist but I am searching for an controller that I can connect with homey to have the different colors in different varieties on the 5 meter led.(I prefer z wave but when it’s not its no problem)
You’ll need a NeoPixel (WS2812B) LED strip and a controller that can handle them. A regular RGBW LED strip can only handle one color at a time for the entire strip, you can’t use it to show different colors on different segments like you’re showing in the photo.
I was looking for something plug and play but I think that’s gonna be hard.
So I think this is what I need and I have to read the tutorials and watch YouTube and learn.
First of al I need to investigate what I need the npor or wled.
Also I read that I can’t configure the patterns in homey but I can start them so that’s fine.
I read already that the patterns are downloadable.
But how can I make them myself?, in a app or pc or something like that.
So this is wat I need an esp32 or an esp8266? To work with the d.a.l.o.r app.
I don’t know what the Dalor app supports specifically.
I have a few WLED devices running on ESP8266. I don’t think you can create your own effects for it (at least not without recompiling the code), but it does have plenty of built-in effects. I don’t use it with Homey, but with Home Assistant.
Short Answer: NPOR is better for building status displays. WLED is the go to choice for lighting projects.
The app only controls what the WLED software has configured in it. But the configuration menu for WLED is quite powerful.
LIFX has LED strips but they are segmented into 6 LEDs per segement or so. So it is not individual LEDs per LIFX Z. The LIFX Beam has individually addressable LEDs but not sure whether that is what you are looking for device vice.
The big brand name LED strips and controllers are massively over priced. I would never buy one.
If it were me I’d buy some LED strips from BTF-lighting on AliExpress (they are a good seller) . That’s where I got mine from. The SK6812’s are the best strip. All the others are old gear as they are missing white. The 30 led per meter strips look fine. You don’t necessarily need to go 60 Led per meter. The cool white option is the best I’ve found,
For the controller an ESP32 based D1 Mini is recommended. You could learn to flash it with the WLED firmware , or there are probably some D1 Mini’s that you can buy that are already pre-flashed…
One other thing I’d also recommend is getting and adding a relay module . I’d have the controller permanently powered on its own separate 5v power supply… (old phone charger is fine). and get it to activate the relay to control the power to the larger dedicated power supply that’s required to power the actual strip. If not the strip will keep sucking power even when it’s not being used …
By far WLED is the best LED strip control system that I’ve ever seen . It gets new features added quite regularly and the developer is quite serious about it and is always improving it. Look up Dr Zzzz videos on YouTube to find more about it.
It also works extremely well with D.A.L.O.R. on Homey…
First of all thanks for you’re comment, it helped me very wel.
Now i made a test setup(1 meter) and it is great i think, it is really nice to see but…
I used 2812 60 led meter for the test but i need 6 meter and there is a problem because transfer the voltage over 6 meters is a lot also i need many amperes.
So what is the best solution to get 6 meter long fully working.
Is it better to take 12 volts led’s and does that work because the esp output is 5volt for the signal.
And how many amperes do i need for 6 meter 60 led’s meter?
If your after nice uniform lighting on a strip that’s over 5m and using 60leds per meter @ 12v I’d do what Rob suggested and power it from both ends of the strip using appropriate gauge wire.
As mentioned before the best configuration is to use a dedicated power supply for the strip and just use a simple low wattage 5V USB phone charger to power the D1 mini (esp32 controller).
High amp 5v or 12V power supplies (in general) are fairly cheap. Always order one that is more amps/watts than what you actually require. This will put less stress and heat load on the PS and will ensure longevity. Only costs an extra $5 to $10. Is a no brainer. Always make a system that’s slightly over engineered when it comes to power…
Like I also mentioned before I’d also highly recommend getting a relay module to shut off the 240V power feed to the power supply (for the actual strip) when it’s not being used. The controller can control the relay. The strips do suck some power while they are idle (more so with the 12v ones) . This relay (see below) will do the job… It directly attaches to D1 mini controller boards for a neat and tidy installation. . They can be used with other ESP based controllers by using jumper wires to attach …
Also steer clear of “WS” based strips and go with SK6812.
Colour, appearance and effects are way better. The SK6812’s are based on 5v but with some slightly heavier gauge cable they aren’t a problem. Most strips you have to power from both ends anyway so doesn’t really matter. There is a very big visual difference between RGB strips and RGBCW strips. The white channel adds a lot …
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First of all thanks for the comments again.
I do the relay switch it is safer and better but that one you mentioned is only 10 amps don’t know if that is oke because it is only 5v or 12v.
Can I use a long thick wire from 1 power supply to feet both ends or do I need an second supply.
I see that there is also a 12v version of the sk6812, do I need also 31 ampere for 12v?
It’s not “more than enough”, see my calculation which came to 21A. But practically speaking, 20A should be okay because you will probably never run the entire strip on full brightness (and even if you would, it’s not a problem to underpower it slightly).
Ahh oke I thought the sk6812 spend less power, I have to buy a driver so I take an heavier one.
What kind of thickness for the cable to feet it on the other side? So it is sure to be safe.
It goes in an aluminium tube and I don’t like the power on my hand.
Our Chinese friends says that the sk6812 similar is to ws2812b but it is not. So I have to watch out.
