I’ll await your findings before I start soldering. Hope Athom picks up these issues and will come with a more mature housing. The globe shape was nice for Kickstarter but too limiting for solid design.
@Caseda Yes but that happens more often. And is usually straightened out with a heal action. Now this doesn’t work and the random placeholder looks worrying, like a software glitch.
I really don’t see what the housing has to do with it, i don’t think a square housing would make things any better… And Homey looks far more attractive then all other controllers this way.
Mounting external antenna’s would for sure. But placing Homey on a good central spot will also make a huge difference. Even revolving it around it’s central axis will make difference for Z-wave because of the horizontal placing of the antenna…
That’s interesting. Do you have a map of the antenna strength field with respect to its orientation around the central axis?
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Nope, just experience and by observation via the developer page. First I had a mesh with most direct connections with devices on the left side of Homey. Twisting it 180 degrees resulted in a mesh with most direct connections on the right side. Placing it elsewhere put the whole mesh in a frenzy, so put it back where it was. I have now external antenna’s (upright) and it still does matter where it stands. However, rotating it doesn’t do much difference anymore.
I would have been more pleased with a 1U high half width 19" housing with external antennas and an ethernet connection on the front. The wifi only option is not the most reliable. Users now have to depend on wifi working reliably to use their domotica system while in dense urban environments wifi can be problematic. Wired connections have much less chance of transmission faults.
Why I want a more industrial housing is that in 90% of the situations the zwave controller is placed in an electrical cabinet or other technical room alongside other network devices such as switches and/or a firewall/router.
I one can mount all these neatly in a 19" rack or frame things look a lot more “decent” and tend to work more reliable than just a fancy look.
The antennas can be easily replaced with higher gain versions for larger buildings.
If you opt for a normal and pro version, upgrade the pro version to a pro housing.
On the software side I would like to see a Zipato style network heal function. Here all nodes in are contacted and the routing information is gathered. Then the controller itself will try to contact each node itself and when it fails it will try using other nodes. So a completely new routing map is created and all nodes are updated using this information.
It would also be very handy if one can manually force a particular node to be connected using a prefered node.
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My Zipato and almost all modules in my house blew up by a floating null wire that caused the voltage to rise to 380volt on all electrical groups.
I wasn’t pleased with Zipato because of different zwave and other issues that weren’t fixed by Zipato support.
So I started to look arround for a new domotica solution and I was advised the Homey.
I ended up buying the Homey Pro and it does the job, but there are zwave issues from now and then and if I was asked to design a “pro” device it would look like an enterprise ready network device, because that adds to the pro feeling. It also allows for more space on a systemboard, maybe an even faster more highend processor, much more ram, a M2 SSD option to provide for integrated logging and reporting, better airflow and thus better cooling and more reliable operation during more extreme temperatures, more powerfull transmitters, better shielding against interference, better antennas, integrated power supply, etc…
That is what Pro(fessional) means to me.
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If u can tell me what more RAM has to do with this network heal topic then i don’t delete this off-topic posts.
Sorry. I’ll stick to the topic.
In my case some modules sometimes don’t “trigger”.
I have about 8 dimmers in my livingroom and kitchen and 3 fibaro wall plugs. On the 1e floor there are 4 more modules and a motion sensor and in the garden there are 5 modules.
When I use the device type to trigger an all lights off flow, 7 out of 10 times some modules are not switched off.
I use a general shutdown flow and repeat the shutdown commands for a certain zone within a flow after 5 seconds and dispersed all zones abou 10 seconds from each otherbut this is a dirty way to accomplish what I want.
One of the fibaro wallplugs with to most problems is within 0,7 meter of the Homey behind a wooden wall and most other modules seem to route using this module.
I already swapped this homeplug with an other one, but the problem seems to stays at this location.
If I remove/include the module it works for a few days, but then it fails again and cannot be controlled all.
Hello
Same problem here.
The module doesn’t respond to commands/flows anymore…
Does someone have a idea or solution ?
Thanks a lot
You could try the things below:
Zwave checking or removing:
Homey remove a zwave device: goto settings/zwave/remove a zwave device
And ofcourse the three dots on the developerspage
Deleting and adding again
Thanks.
I have tried to heal, test frame and test without success
I have 2 fibaro that was associated with my another zwave box (i’m migrating room after room from it to Honey)
I have removed this 2 fibaro from the old box, and associated to the homey.
Afetr that I have made a “send test frame” and “heal” on the faulty RGBW
The way is now correct, via one of the 2 newly homey-included fibaro 
Maybe this fibaro parts not included on the honey was the problem
Now, the way isn’t the best one, some instructions are lost, but it works. Before that, with the ghost “192” node, it never works.
Thanks again
Hi, I just moved from SmartThings to Homey, and I’d like to know how to access this screen/tool.
I’m on the latest firmware if that matters. TIA
Issues with Z-wave plus MESH network here also and the developers page HEAL functionality doesn’t seem to work.
I think the best (and most effort) solution (at least you could give it a try) is to unplug all wallplugs and then setup 1 route to an end device. Now setup route 2, delete the plugs from route 1 via which it should not hop and plug in the wallplugs for route 2.
for example:
Route1: Homey - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4
Route 2 should only use Homey - 1 - 2 and then the new plug, so remove 3 and 4 from the wall.
Route2: Homey - 1 - 2 - 5
Route 3 should use Homey - 1 - 2 - 3 and 6 so remove 4 and 5 and start building route 3
Route3: Homey - 1 - 2 - 3 - 6
Idea is that when building your route, be sure unwanted hops are not in the wall.
Hope this will built a descent mesh network.
Couldn’t you plug-in everything and powercycle the main powerswitch? If power is back on it should find the best route.
Hi Jeroen,
That might be an option also.
Dind’t find time to execute my own option As your’s seems to be quicker i might try that first.
But for what i have been reading on fora Z-wave doesnt always seems to pick the most logical route. But whatever… if it works, it works.
Thanks for your thoughts.
A PTP would do the same. Doing this for at least 10 minutes and then plugging in will have a rebuild of your mesh.
There is one difference… the wallplugs still remain on power during the Homey PtP.
So worth trying as it still not works flawless.
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Have you checked the mem and cpu use in homey (both homey and the certain apps) during this period…guessing it peaks…
Because. Homey offers a nice package in a single device and does this better than Zipato did.
The only thing is that it highly depends on wifi. If there is a wifi issue, it is highly problable there also is a domotica issue.
A wired option could eliminate most connectivity issues and allow for better troubleshooting.
When looking at more higher end domotica solutions they all come in a din mountable housing for easy mounting.
Not everyone wants to place their domotic controller in the livingroom in plane sight, so a version for a more professional installation option might be a good idea.
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